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For almost half a century, New York society ate lunch at La Côte Basque.

The restaurant, which, starting in 1958, occupied a grand corner of Fifth Avenue and 55th Street, across from the St. Regis Hotel, was synonymous with Cassini-clad women eating quenelles of pike and flinging gossip, especially after Truman Capote set an infamous story there that wreaked havoc on the Upper East Side. But in 2004 the place closed, and to some it was as if an entire era had ended.

La Côte Basque's successor in the muraled space was a Disney store, the antithesis of a haute hangout. When it too closed, in 2009, memories of the cold striped bass with green sauce, of the irreproachable service, and of Jackie Onassis or the Duchess of Windsor stepping out from under La Côte's green awning into a clutch of photographers had hardly faded.

So it would take some confidence to try to create another society clubhouse in the same location. Leave